Well this is a very underrated walk, it was pure beauty the entire way! The 26km Tomaree Coastal Walk was for me a continuation of my long walk north. After finishing the Great North Walk between Sydney and Newcastle I discovered a route called the Federation Track North and decided to follow it. I previously walked the section covering the entire length of Stockton beach to Anna Bay and now I’ve picked up the trail from Anna Bay to Shoal Bay, near Nelson Bay. (pictures at end).

I woke at 4am and walked the two kilometres to the train station. Gotta love those bonus miles. I had a two hour train followed by a one hour bus ride to get to Anna Bay. Yes I should have split this over two days so I could have a more reasonable start, but I also just wanted a full day long hike challenge, so I really didn’t mind the hassle.

Anna Bay is beautiful. I could live there. There is a wide beach connected to vast dune fields that stretch all the way along Stockton Beach. Dune tours leave from here, where people climb dune and slide down them, and there are ATV tours too. There was a nice little cafe kiosk open so I grabbed a coffee to warm me up. The track was easy to find and before long I was standing at a large sign marking the start of the walk. As I started walking, I noticed a Yellow-tail Black Cockatoo in a tree. After watching for a few moments I saw it had a friend too. These are my absolute favourite bird in Australia, their squawk is positively Jurassic sounding.

As I walked the coastline it became more rugged, but the beauty amazed me. I climbed up a small pinnacle and perched there for a while taking in the view. I could still see the dune fields to the south and the more rocky coastline to the north. I was next to a very rocky section that was being hammered by waves and it was impressive. I climbed back down and some folks who were approaching decided to climb up the same spot for the view. Funnily enough, I climbed the next hill and got an even better view! I lost the track a little, backtracking and following a few dead ends, until I realised it went right around the edge of the cliff after a bit of a clamber.

I crossed the beach at boat harbour. There were no shops here so I sat for a break. There were waves were pounding the shore on each side and I wondered how this could be considered a harbour at all. Looked way too rough.

The track hit a few tree covered areas. Hanging from one of the trees was what looked like a dream catcher or some other type of totem. It made me wonder what was inhabiting this forest to warrant such a thing!

I crossed some exposed rocky platforms and soon had my breath once again taken away but the expansive view of One-mile Beach. Long waves traveled in toward the wide shore. I could see dunes in the far distance and I picked up my pace. soon enough I was on the sand and had my shoes off. The water was cold but felt amazing.

I headed in to the holiday park for a coffee but everything was shut. I started to be concerned about my pace and whether I would meet up with the last bus in time of not. One-mile beach was one of my planned bail-out points. I decided to defer the decision until Fingal bay. Lack of coffee was starting to affect my mood, but I didn’t grumble too long though as I had a long luxurious beach to stroll along. At the far end,I could see where erosion had torn away the dunes as the beach butted up to a vertical wall of sand to which the waves almost reached. There was a small rocky section to climb over and I was soon standing on Samurai beach. This was a clothing optional beach and one gentleman was taking advantage of the freedom. The rest of the beach was empty thank goodness! I remained clothed and kept walking.

The next section of the walk was a bit miserable. I went through forest with not much to see and just felt like a slog. All I was thinking about was that I should have split the walk in two and maybe skipped this bit. I was hot and tired and grumpy, which was the complete opposite of how I felt during the first half of the walk. I really wished I had left the walk at the end of Samurai beach and caught the bus to Fingal bay. I’d honestly recommend that approach to anyone doing the walk in one day, unless a continuous line of footsteps was important.

I did get stopped by a lizard basking on a log in the middle of the trail. I think it thought it was well camouflaged as it didn’t move as I approached. I slowly walked around it saying “oh don’t get up!”. Would want it to put itself out for little old me!

The highlight of this section though was a grove of Gymea Lillie’s in full bloom. I fell in love with these when I did the great north walk and it was lovely seeing them framed against the sea.

I had one challenge where I needed to cross a swampy creek. I couldn’t find a dry way across so I just plopped straight in, trying to step on branches. I managed to only get one foot wet somehow.

I’d taken a look at my map and realised that I could shorted the route a bit but cutting out a headland at Fingal bay and just walk through the town to the bay itself. This would save half an hour to an hour and I wouldn’t miss much. So I decided to do it. When I reached Fingal bay I stopped at a service station for a coffee and sausage roll and ate them at some tables near the beach. It was nice but i didn’t stay too long.

The next part of the walk too me alongside a swampy section of forest and I was soon seeing the first of three hills which would culminate in my climb to the top of Mount Tomaree.

The first was Quarry hill, and thankfully the trail went around it not up it, though there was a steep section of track that I had to cover to get to this point. I was very tired and kept stopping. Somewhere along here I stepped in a patch of wet sand and it felt very strange. I suspect it was a thin layer of quicksand. I can’t explain it really, it had a wet sand appearance but more resistance when I stepped on it and kind of had more of a sideways slide to it when I pressed down with my foot. Could have been all in my head but it certainly felt different.

I was pleased with my progress but decided to skip Wreck beach. I followed the path around Stephen’s peak and was going to also skip Zenith beach but something made me change my mind. I’m glad I did as the beach was amazing, with Tomaree Peak rising right out of one side. I strolled along the sand feeling quite uplifted. I couldn’t find the best way off the beach so I cut thru the vegetated dunes until I reached the track. I tried not to step on anything.

I was soon on a roadway which led to Tomaree peak. I was out of energy, but the sun was approaching the horizon and I was determined to climb that mountain to see it. I started up the path. Other people were zooming passed me and I took breaks frequently. I felt like an old man pushing himself. I’m 50 now so I guess that true. I wanted to tell everyone that this was by 27th kilometre for the day and that I had a right to be tired! The climb up was endless, until it wasn’t. I reach an observation area and finally had the view that I was wanting. From Tomaree Peak you could see Stephen’s Peak, Zenith beach, Quarry Hill and Fingal bay. The setting Sun lit up everything with a golden glow. I stayed a while, taking it all in. I planned the day well and achieved the view I had wanted so I was well pleased with myself. I could also see Shoal Bay and Nelson Bay. There were a lot of people up top so I politely waited for them to finish their pictures then passed by them to begin my descent. It was much quicker on the way down. There was another older chap struggling up. We said a few words, I can’t remember what, but he will get there for the sunset. I had just missed the early bus so had some time to spend in Shoal bay before the last one arrived. So I walked along the water front watching the last of the sun set. Wharfs and boats silhouetted again the golden sky. It was lovely.

This walk is incredibly unknown. The climb up Tomaree seemed to be popular but the full walk was sparse on people. I highly recommend it! The bit between Samurai Bay and Fingal bay dragged so I recommend skipping ahead by bus or splitting the walk into two days so that this bit feels like less of a slog. I have a lovely sense of achievement after walking all that way only to end with a mountain climb that looked as beautiful as I had hoped. Brilliant walk!